
All over
the filthy yard they blew, letters of recommendation to the courts of
Arabia, demands for ammunition for troops, reports on the theft of camels
and attacks on pilgrims, all in delicate hand-written Arabic script.
I was holding in my hands the last Baghdad vestiges of Iraq's written
history.

"But for Iraq, this is Year Zero; with the destruction of the antiquities
in the Museum of Archaeology on Saturday and the burning of the National
Archives and then the Koranic library, the cultural identity of Iraq
is being erased. Why?"
Who set these fires? For what insane purpose is this heritage being
destroyed? When I caught sight of the Koranic library burning - flames
100 feet high were bursting from the windows - I raced to the offices
of the occupying power, the US Marines' Civil Affairs Bureau.
An officer shouted to a colleague that "this guy says some biblical
[sic] library is on fire". I gave the map location, the precise
name - in Arabic and English. I said the smoke could be seen from three
miles away and it would take only five minutes to drive there. Half
an hour later, there wasn't an American at the scene - and the flames
were shooting 200 feet into the air. There was a time when the Arabs
said that their books were written in Cairo, printed in Beirut and read
in Baghdad. Now they burn libraries in Baghdad.
In the
National Archives were not just the Ottoman records of the Caliphate,
but even the dark years of the country's modern history, handwritten
accounts of the 1980-88 Iran-Iraq war, with personal photographs and
military diaries,and microfiche copies of Arabic newspapers going back
to the early 1900s. But the older files and archives were on the upper
floors of the library where petrol must have been used to set fire so
expertly to the building. The heat was such that the marble flooring
had buckled upwards and the concrete stairs that I climbed had been
cracked. The papers on the floor were almost too hot to touch, bore
no print or writing, and crumbled into ash the moment I picked them
up.
Again, standing
in this shroud of blue smoke and embers, I asked the same question: why?
So, as an all-too-painful reflection on what this means, let me quote
from the shreds of paper that I found on the road outside, blowing in
the wind, written by long-dead men who wrote to the Sublime Porte in Istanbul
or to the Court of Sharif of Mecca with expressions of loyalty and who
signed themselves "your slave". There was a request to protect
a camel convoy of tea, rice and sugar, signed by Husni Attiya al-Hijazi
(recommending Abdul Ghani-Naim and Ahmed Kindi as honest merchants), a
request for perfume and advice from Jaber al-Ayashi of the royal court
of Sharif Hussein to Baghdad to warn of robbers in the desert. "This
is just to give you our advice for which you will be highly rewarded,"
Ayashi says. "If you don't take our advice, then we have warned you."
A touch of Saddam there, I thought. The date was 1912. Some of the documents
list the cost of bullets, military horses and artillery for Ottoman armies
in Baghdad and Arabia, others record the opening of the first telephone
exchange in the Hejaz - soon to be Saudi Arabia - while one recounts,
from the village of Azrak in modern-day Jordan, the theft of clothes from
a camel train by Ali bin Kassem, who attacked his interrogators "with
a knife and tried to stab them but was restrained and later bought off".
There is a 19th-century letter of recommendation for a merchant, Yahyia
Messoudi, "a man of the highest morals, of good conduct and who works
with the [Ottoman] government."
This, in other words, was the tapestry of Arab history - all that is left
of it, which fell into The Independent's hands as the mass of documents
crackled in the immense heat of the ruins. King Faisal of the Hejaz, the
ruler of Mecca, whose staff are the authors of many of the letters I saved,
was later deposed by the Saudis. His son Faisel became king of Iraq -
Winston Churchill gave him Baghdad after the French threw him out of Damascus
- and his brother Abdullah became the first king of Jordan, the father
of King Hussein and the grandfather of the present-day Jordanian monarch,
King Abdullah II. For almost a thousand years, Baghdad was the cultural
capital of the Arab world, the most literate population in the Middle
East. Genghis Khan's grandson burnt the city in the 13th century and,
so it was said, the Tigris river ran black with the ink of books. Yesterday,
the black ashes of thousands of ancient documents filled the skies of
Iraq. Why?